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I found a black and gold brickhouse box and am going to make a cbg out of it.
I want to have the nice image on front of the box to be on the back the box,  because i want the lid to open towards me, so I can add electronics later.
The back of the box is regular writing and whatever, but no image.
.so, how do people switch the images so they are on the back of the box?

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It depends on the box.   Is it a paper-wrap box, wood box... what kind? 

One way I can think of is if you have a laser or ink jet printer and a scanner, you can scan the image and print it.  Seal it with an art fixitive and adhere it to the box using a spray adhesive. 

If you don't have a scanner/printer the local copy shop might be able to do it for you.

If it is a paper-bound box... a heat blower can cause the adhesive of the paper to give way and it may be able to be carefully peeled from the front of the box and transferred to the back.  However some paper-bound boxes have cardboard or pasteboard rather than wood interior, and that may not be desirable.

That's just a couple methods.  It's one of those "it depends" things. : )

Maybe someone knows the specifics of the brickhouse box and can add other ideas.

It's wood. I want to have the front lid so I can open it to add stuff inside if needed.

If you just want the front lid to be openable, can use the lid for the front.  Just note where the neck intersects the box and cut a small indent in the underside of the neck that allows it to slide into the box when the lid is closed.  The neck cut takes the sharp edge off the corner and is hidden by the box side when closed.

Wayfinder said:

If you just want the front lid to be openable, can use the lid for the front.  Just note where the neck intersects the box and cut a small indent in the underside of the neck that allows it to slide into the box when the lid is closed.  The neck cut takes the sharp edge off the corner and is hidden by the box side when closed.

I thought about it and it's the same thing as putting it under the ...

It looks different because it's backwards kinda. 

I'm looking for a pic of one..

Having made a coupla' cbg's from these very boxes, I recommend using the top as the bottom and the bottom as the top, and just enjoy the graphic you like on the back of the guitar. Those boxes' lids are just too thick to get any decent acoustic sound out of 'em, IMO. Mine turned out to be electric guitars.

Personally, I'd sand the paper off the bottom (now the top), and stain, paint, or whatever, on the face of the guitar. I doubt any sort of a "transfer" would look anywhere near as good as the original box top.

As always, YMMV.

I agree with Jim.  Many a box I've reversed like he says and let the lid decorate the back.  Often the bottom of the box provides a much better sound board, doesn't warp, and you can decorate it any way you like.  Might well be the best way to go.  When you hang it, you can always hang it back-side (lid) forward.  : )

Ya, I never thought about putting the neck through the bottom of the box.

I've always put it under the lid.

But, adding electronics has been a pain once the strings are on/top/lid.

How do you do supports for the neck/electronics if there's nowhere to screw/glue to, like you do when putting he neck from the top/lid. Anyone have photos/video links?.

Thanx again. 

Whether attaching the neck to the bottom or top of the box, the installation is almost identical.  You either have a separate stick-through or the neck itself functions as the stick-through (either way works).   You decide whether you want the stick attached directly to the box, or separated a bit.  If it's separated a bit, glue separator pieces of wood (1/8" to 1/4" thick) at either end of the box and then glue the stick-through to those, leaving a nice gap between them.

The neck enters the box through a hole you cut in the side of the box; doesn't matter whether the hole is cut lid-side or back-side, same concept.  At the end you either stop the stick on the inside, or run it through another hole to the outside. 

The electronics are highly optional.  What kind?  Piezo, flat mags, regular mags?  The controls can go anywhere.  Doesn't matter whether the holes go through the lid or through the bottom, same exact concept applies in installation (beware of "too thick" wood when doing so).  Front or back, you can get the box open.

Consider the difference as this:

* If you attach the neck to the lid, the neck and lid opens together.  The neck is attached to the lid, not the box.   When you open the lid, the neck, electronics and everything comes with it.

* If you attach the neck to the backside (which then becomes the front side), when you open the lid (from the back), only the lid opens.  Nothing else is attached to it. This is one advantage of using the back of the box as the front.

* There is an exception:  using the lid as the face and attaching the neck to the box.  Major disadvantage:  if you want to open the box, you have to remove the strings.  So this is my least-favorite way to design a guitar.  I have seen this method used, but never use it myself.

Other than that functional difference, the installation is pretty much exactly the same, whether you use the lid for the face or the back as the face.  I've built both ways and in the end run, the decisive factor is a simple one:  which will make a better face for the guitar, the lid or back?  Whichever will present a better face, that's what I use.  Build-wise however, it really makes no difference.   Once I decide which side to use for the front, I build it pretty much the same way.

The only time I absolutely would not use a lid for the front is if it is made of cheap wood or has a good chance of warping.  Cigar boxes that have thin, one-layer wood lids tend to not make very good lid-front guitars unless the lid is re-enforced on the inside.  The wood tends to warp considerably over time, from any direction imaginable.

I have known folks who built the guitar and cut access holes in the back to get to string changes / electronics... then permanently sealed the entire lid to make sure it doesn't warp.  Others have used an internal brace along the side of the box and screwed the lid down to it.  The ways of making a CBG are as many as there are cigar boxes... and more.  The one question I always go by:  what is it going to take to make this actually work?    I have the entire git designed, in my head and if necessary on paper before I make the first pencil mark or saw cut.

A follow-up which simplifies this concept in one's mind:

Consider a cigar box that, while it has an obvious front and back, opens at the center.  The "lid" and "back" pices are pretty much identical, both have surface and sides, and hinge at the back center. 

If the box was unmarked, you'd have no way telling which is the "lid" and which isn't.  Both sides of the box are pretty near identical. You can use either for the face of the guitar.

So conceptually, there is no absolute "front" or "back" of a CBG... until you make it so.  That is the case with most cigar boxes I've seen.  Lid or back, either one can be the face of the git.    How you build the guitar after deciding which side to use for the front is pretty much an identical process.  Stick goes through the box.  Bridge goes on the face.  Electronics attach however they attach. Lid or back... it makes little or no difference.

That said... one of the most important decisions you'll make is what kind of pickup to use, as that will significantly affect the design of the guitar and the way you build internal structure.  You have to design the guitar around where the pickup sits, and leave enough room between the strings and face of the guitar to allow the pickup to fit.  If you use a standard (non-flat) pickup, you will usually have to cut a hole in the face and internal bracing to allow for the pickup body.  If you use a flat pickup all you need to allow for is surface distance. If you use piezos... the sound will be different but ease of installation is pretty straight-forward.

You asked for photos.  Here's illustrations.  Note there is no indication which is the lid or back of the box . Doesn't matter. : )

Neck-through design... often used for piezo-type pickups.

One type of stick-through design, good for standard pickups:

Stick-through design good for flat pickups:

Wow, thank you for that detailed explanation.

I will probably go with  single humbuckers from an old electric guitar that has become parts.

That photo definitely shows what I need to achieve the final result..

Glad it helps.  One important thing:  when using a split stick-through (2nd diagram), be sure the pieces of wood are strongly attached to one another.  For that I use quality wood glue AND a screw. ;D

There are differences in wood glues.  The three favorite seem to be:

* Gorilla Wood Glue (new formula, non-foaming)

* Tite-Bond 3

* Elmer's Professional Wood Glue

Personally I use Gorilla exclusively, but that's just because that's the one I initially chose and have used it for years-- which instills confidence.  I have no doubt from the claims of others that the other two glues are equally good.  I have a sneaky suspicion that Gorilla and Tite-Bond 3 is the same stuff, but no proof. ;D

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